Artwork, tea sets and a helping of Irish craic make for a fabulous guesthouse getaway on the North Devon coast, writes Catherine Courtenay
It is a perfect cream tea, perfect in every way, the warm scone fresh out of the oven, just the right amount of clotted cream, a deeply fruity jam, and tea served in the most beautiful bone china cup and saucer.
Let’s pause for a while with the cup and saucer, because this delicate item of crockery symbolises what makes Highcliffe House, where I’m sitting having my cream tea, that little bit special.
The owners Robert Walshe and Richard Robinson, have an eye for detail, hence the perfect crockery for serving tea, combined with an expert awareness of guests’ needs. With Highcliffe House they have crafted a beautiful and luxurious setting for a break away from the pressures of daily life.
They came to Devon from Ireland and busy careers, in media and hospitality respectively. Leaving everything behind, they took the plunge and set up their idea of a perfect guesthouse. In a way, their lives and interests had been pointing to this moment. Take the artwork for instance. The house is filled with works and objects gathered over the years from the countries they have visited on their travels – over 120 to date. And as for the tea cup, Richard has a collection of antique tea sets, which are used for guests’ breakfasts – and the complimentary cream tea which served on arrival. It’s an extensive collection but this means the crockery changes daily, so there’s a different set at every breakfast serving. It’s a thoughtful and homely delight.
The house, which sits just off one of Lynton’s narrow steep streets, was built around 1880 as a summer home for the architect and engineer who built the famous Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway. There are six bedrooms, all individual and filled with antique furniture – along with more artwork. Everywhere is spotless, there are Noble Isle toiletries in the bathroom, the beds are heavenly and the addition of smart technology, including a tablet, Alexa and USB charging points brings each room bang up to date.
Breakfast is served in a light-filled conservatory with awe-inspiring views, down over the town, across deep, wooded valleys, to the cliffs of Countisbury, Exmoor and the sea. It’s hard to get across just how impressive the scenery is around Lynton and Lynmouth. Fellow guests, a couple making their first visit to North Devon from Ireland (no strangers to beautiful landscapes), can’t get over how stunning it is. If people from home knew more about it, they’d be flying across in droves, they tell me.
As for breakfast itself, the service is impeccable, with a lovely touch of Irish craic to start the day. Ingredients come from local suppliers and dishes are cooked individually for each guest, having been chosen from the menu the evening before. It’s nice to see some touches from home though, the coffee for example, comes from a roastery in Belfast.
Despite only running for a couple of years, five star Highcliffe House has won an extraordinary number of awards, including AA Guest Accommodation of the Year in England 2022. One look at the accolades on Tripadvisor (it’s named as one of the top 25 B&Bs in the country) reveals a very happy crowd of guests. But, taking all aspects of the Highcliffe House experience into consideration, it’s really no wonder that so many return again and again.
Exploring the area
It is steep around here, but access between the two towns is easy thanks to the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway, the highest and steepest totally water powered railway in the world.
Lynton contains a good number of cafes, bars and places to eat. There are independent shops and galleries too, and even a toy museum. I don’t think I saw one empty shop front in its busy little streets.
The Oak Room in Lynton is a welcoming tapas restaurant, with a real buzz. Dishes are plentiful, and there’s a great choice of wines. It’s just the sort of relaxed place that’s hard to drag yourself away from at the end of the evening.
Visit the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Hall for a fascinating exhibition on the devastating events of on night in August 1952 when the town was hit by raging river waters coming off the moor.
Take the coast path and the steep climb up Countisbury Hill. It’s a bracing walk, rewarded by gorgeous scenery and very welcome refreshments at The Blue Ball Inn
For coffee and cake, pop into Lynmouth Bay Café, or pick up one of their packed lunches to take with you while exploring Exmoor.
On a warm sunny day, nothing beats joining the walkers and dog owners, glass in hand, sitting on the wall outside the iconic Rising Sun pub.
READ MORE: Exmoor walk: dramatic scenery at Lynmouth and Watersmeet
