Gone are the days when a farm shop was a small farmyard shed selling home-reared meat and home-grown veg. Many have now become day-out destinations, offering fantastic artisan produce, top quality restaurants and teashops. LAURA DALE takes a look at five of Devon’s best farm shops.
Farm shops have become a new guilty pleasure of mine. I say guilty because in these days of austerity it’s become the social norm to do the weekly shop at budget supermarkets offering German branded produce at a fraction of the price of its English counterpart.
The thing is, I have tried budget weekly shopping at two nearby supermarkets and it just hasn’t worked out. For starters there’s never any parking so I end up carrying a squirming toddler from a nearby car park to the store where all of the trollies are mixed up and you need a pound coin to release them. Once released, I inevitably have the wrong trolley and said toddler must sit at the bottom of the trolley whilst I pile fruit, veg and some previously unheard of condiments around her. This, dear readers, makes for a stressful shopping trip. Not to mention the fact when you reach the till you must pack at lightning speed whilst the weekly shop is whizzed through by an employee sticking to the chains super-fast-check-out policy. Furthermore, budget fruit and veg doesn’t even last a week before it starts growing extra limbs and grey, fuzzy patches appear.
Fortunately, there is an alternative. Farm shops. They are the antithesis of budget supermarket shopping. Farm shops are about local, quality produce with an origin you’ve heard of – in fact it’s usually down the road – and a small list of decipherable ingredients. What’s more, farm shops are about customer service and shopping experience. Although most farm shops started out as small huts or sheds selling vegetables, demand for home-grown produce has increased and so has the footprint of the farm shops and their offerings. Here are some of the best Devon has to offer:
1. Darts Farm
Darts Farm at Topsham near Exeter, started life in the 1972 when Ronald Dart sold home grown fruit and vegetables in a small hut at the bottom of a field. Now Ronald’s three sons Paul, Michael and James run an award winning local food hub and oversee a staff of 130. Michael explains: “We grow 50 varieties of fruit and vegetables and our beef cattle, most of which are Devon Ruby Reds, are all sold through The Butchers at Darts Farm.” Darts also sell produce from hundreds of the regions local food and drink producers. A huge destination farm shop, Darts has an on-site butcher, fishmonger, baker, deli, cider maker and restaurant. It also hosts national retailers including AGA, Fired Earth and Cotswold Outdoor and independent outlets such as the Orange Tree homeware shop, Sarah Pepper Florist and The Treatment Loft health and beauty. Despite becoming a destination farm shop, Darts Farm is still a working farm. They sell all of their home-grown produce directly through the farm shop. Michael says: “By growing our own produce and using suppliers that we know by name, all our food can be traced back to the hands that produced it. Moreover, we believe that value is about providing the best quality of food and service for fair prices. Therefore we give local farmers and artisan producers a rate that supports local food production in the long-term without compromising on taste.” He adds: “Darts Farm exists for the people of Devon. Our key customers are local people, many of whom we know by name.” There’s so much to do at Darts including pick-your-own fruit and vegetables, fishing ponds, a bird hide, the Maize maze and a farm walk taking you around the vegetable fields. This year Darts Farm won the National FARMA Awards Large Farm Shop of the year and it was named the Retail Butchery and Display Champion. It was also named Devon Life’s Best Independent Food Retailer in 2014. “We are proud of having created a business at the heart of the local community that we are passion about and love – and that everyone else loves too. There is a great energy created by our wonderful team, fantastic food producers and loyal, supportive customers,” says Michael.
Do not leave without: A punnet of fresh strawberries.
2. Riverford Farm Shop
The Watson family has farmed the 350 hectare Riverford Farm in South Devon for more than 60 years. The first Riverford Farm Shop opened its doors in 1983 as specialist pork butchers. A second shop was opened at Yealmpton in 1998 and a third shop in Totnes town in 2005. The Watsons also opened The River Field Kitchen in 2006 which has gone on to win numerous awards. Ben Watson, who runs the farm shop side of the business, says: “For more than twenty five years we have been working to bring back the taste and quality of traditional foods through the farm shops with their butchery, fresh vegetables, grocery and deli counters.”
Sadly, after the Foot and Mouth livestock movement restrictions in 2001, Riverford stopped farming pigs but much of their, beef, dairy and vegetables comes straight from the farm. Ben adds: “All the rest of the meat is bought, on the hoof, from local farmers and we deal direct with a plethora of local growers, bakers, brewers, processors, cider makers etc.” Riverford doesn’t see itself as a destination farm shop, but as a genuine alternative to supermarket shopping. It is a huge operation with each business feeding into the other. Riverford Farm Shops employ about 85 people. Riverford Organic Veg employs about 400 people, the dairy employs about 15 people and the farm employs seven people. All five Watson children, Louise (farm), Ben (shop), Oliver (farm and dairy) and Guy and Rachel (organic vegetable boxes) are actively involved in the farm or its associated businesses. The great patriarch, John Watson, though supposedly retired, is still actively involved with all things Riverford. They have won a huge number of national awards for their businesses including Retailer of the Year in the Observer Ethical Awards 2014.
Do not leave without: Pork and herb sausages. Ben says: “The single product I’m most proud of is our pork and herb sausages. They were the first sausage I made in the family kitchen at Riverford 30 plus years ago and the recipe has remained unaltered ever since. They are still the best British breakfast sausage money can buy and they’re pretty good for supper too.”
3. Millers Farm Shop
Millers Farm Shop at Gammons Hill, Axminster in East Devon was established in 1979 by Malcolm and Angela Miller. They started off selling potatoes before adding other vegetables, fruit and daffodils to their offering. The shop is now about 8,000 metres squared and employs 11 members of staff. Olivia, who helps run the business and is Malcolm’s daughter in law, says: “We are a one stop shop, people can buy everything here.” The Millers grow a range of vegetables including broad beans, lettuce, courgettes and pumpkins. They also source more vegetables from local growers and meat from within a five mile radius.
A rustic farm shop, Millers sets itself apart from the competition by selling a range of French produce which is kept topped up with weekly visits to France. They stock soft cheeses, tinned duck, biscuits, olive oils, bread flour, a range of wines and snails in garlic butter. Olivia explains: “Malcolm had a property in France and he liked the products they had there, so he started to bring some back with him and it grew from there. Now people come here just to buy French wine.”
Do not leave without: A bunch of daffodils in spring time and a bottle of French wine.
4. Lizzy’s Larder
Lizzy’s Larder at Blackberry Farm, Milton Damerel, Holsworthy in North Devon. Blackberry Farm is home to Mike and Lizzy Kirby and their three children. They moved to Devon in 1997 with 100 sheep and they rented a dilapidated farm and set about building a farm business. Lizzy says: “Foot and Mouth devastated the area but we were lucky enough to save the stock on our home farm, but unfortunately it came at a price and we were left struggling to survive. We looked for ways to diversify and in 2002 I swept out my larder and opened my a small farm shop, Lizzy’s Larder.” Thankfully the risk paid off and the farm shop steadily grew. In 2006 the Kirbys moved Lizzy’s Larder into a purpose built shop on the other side of Blackberry Farm. They now have a herd of Angus beef and show cattle as well as a flock of Texel and rare breed sheep. Lizzy says: “Uniquely our farm has been built around the shop. We have a tearoom filled with local crafts and gifts and a tea garden with the most beautiful views of Dartmoor. The shop is surrounded by animals including our much loved rescue donkey Muffin.” The Kirbys also keep ponies, pigs, chickens, ducks and geese. Lizzy says: “We produce our own beef and lamb and free range eggs. We make our own sausages and burgers, bake our own cakes, sausage rolls, pasties and pies. We cook a large range of ready meals. Our freshly made gluten free homemade soups are a best seller in our tearoom. We make our own scones and jam and use a local clotted cream for our fabulous cream teas. We make a good 80 per cent of what we sell.” Lizzy also does farm tours and visitors can visit and pet the animals free of charge.In 2011, Lizzy’s Larder at Blackberry Farm won Top local producer and Best specialist retailer in the North Devon food and Drink Awards.
Do not leave without: One of Lizzy’s sausage rolls or trying one of her legendary cream teas.
5. Lifton Farm Shop
Lifton Farm Shop at Lifton in West Devon began life 25 years ago as a caravan with a weigh and pay system for people picking their own strawberries. In 2002 the farm shop was built and this has been slowly expanded over the years. Roger and Jo Mounce run the farm and the shop with their son Adam and his wife Laura. They also have 50 members of staff who help cultivate the produce from their 240 acre farm and run their 150 seat restaurant. Laura says: “We farm solely for the farm shop and the restaurant. Seventy per cent of the products we sell in the farm shop are made from produce we grow and they are made by us. People come to us because they cannot get that product anywhere else.” Laura adds: “For us, it’s about listening to customers and developing new products. If a customer comes in and mentions a new bread they have heard of, then the next day we will have made it and if it’s popular we will add it to the range.”
A destination farm shop, many families come to shop, eat at the restaurant and use the children’s play area. During the strawberry season, customers can pick their own strawberries. For the last five years Lifton Farm Shop has been a popular wedding venue. They hosted 16 weddings last year and have bookings coming in for this year.
In 2013 they were national finalist in the FARMA Best on Farm Cafe/Restaurant and they were a finalist in the Farmers Weekly for Food Farmer of the Year. In 2014 Trip Adviser awarded them with a Certificate of Excellence.
Do not leave without: A loaf of homemade bread, a jar of strawberry jam and some beef from their butchery.
Other farm shop must mentions:
Powderham Castle farm shop in Kenton. It sells flavoured olive oils and vinegars which you can try. The venison is from the estate and it sells wine from vineyards in Kenton.Dean Court farm shop and butchery near Pennywell Farm, Buckfastleigh. Sells fantastic sausages including Moroccan lamb flavour. Trill Farm shop. The farm is based at Axminster but their products are sold online. Best for top quality, home made beauty products including autumn honey soap. They also sell a range of beautiful blankets woven from wool sheared from their herd of Gotland sheep. Orchards Farm at St John’s Garden Centre, Barnstaple in North Devon. Set up by Rob Cooper and Elizabeth Wilton, Orchards has been running for eight years. They have a small amount of land and glass houses where they grow produce for the shop, the rest is sourced from local farms. Their beef and lamb is from within a 10 mile radius. Orchards also sell Red Dog Bakery sour dough bread.
