This is an exhilarating six-mile ramble for confident and sure-footed hill walkers with a good level of fitness.
The ascent and descent of Parkhouse Hill is particularly challenging, but the thrill of making it down safely will leave you buzzing.
Chrome Hill is much easier, albeit with a steep ascent. However, as Nan Shepherd, the esteemed nature writer and mountain lover observed, you can appreciate the hills equally from the bottom.
There’s an easy path that follows the base of Parkhouse Hill on its southern side.
Likewise, if you don’t fancy the stiff climb (and edges) of Chrome Hill, head up the lane between the two iconic reef knolls (a reminder the Peak District once lay under an ocean) and ascend the picturesque Dowel Dale, following the routed walk again from around Stoop Farm.
The ascent of the two precipitous hills is one to keep for a dry, clear and windless day despite their diminutive size.
1. Parking considerately in the village of Earl Sterndale (outside the church is a good option), take the path that goes up the west side of The Quiet Woman (read headless), currently undergoing major renovation with no trace of the iconic pub name or its grizzly sign.
The path turns right, through four wicket gates and out onto hillside fields before dropping down to a stile then wicket gate, opening to the B5053. Carefully cross the road and go through the adjacent gate.
2. Head towards the base of the hill and into access land. From here, if you don’t fancy the challenging ascent, follow the clear footpath left round the base of Parkhouse, initially keeping the drystone wall on your left. The stout-hearted should follow the clearly defined path steeply up the hillside.
Don’t be tempted to make detours. In places it’s rough, stony and precipitous. Take your time and watch your feet. The path continues along the narrow ridge, reaching a nasty rock face just after the highest point. Negotiate it with extreme caution. I don’t recommend descending as far as the gully on the west side. Having done it in the past, it’s treacherous.
Instead take the first path on your right after the rocky section off the summit. Follow the base of the ridge on its right side for the last short section. Unless you’re a purist, it’s the sensible choice.
3. Reaching a country lane, turn right onto it, then left just before the cattle grid. Round the side of a small rise before climbing up Chrome (pronounced Croom) Hill. It’s another steep ascent but easy underfoot.
Once on top, the clearly defined path skirts around the rocky pinnacles. After the challenges of Parkhouse Hill, Chrome Hill should feel like a breeze. Stick to the main path as it snakes through the rocks. The views of the surrounding area and back to Parkhouse Hill are simply stunning.
4. Dropping into the valley, it’s just a matter of following the path (there are no other possible routes). Just as you think you’re done with the climbs, there’s a steep climb up by Tor Rock. At the top, follow the dry-stone wall on your right through a series of fields.
Cross the tarmac track that leads to Stoop Farm, heading diagonally left to drop down the field (you’ll see the chimney stack of Stoop Farm poking out). At the elbow of a drystone wall, turn right to follow it. The grassy path becomes a track and eventually meets the lane close to Booth Farm.
5. Head past Booth Farm, following the track southwards. You’ll meet some buildings at Fough. Keep left of them to drop down the track through the valley. Eventually you’ll come to a footbridge crossing a stream. Climb up the other side and drink in the stunning views of Chrome and Parkhouse Hills.
On reaching Hollinsclough Rake, turn left onto the road and descend to the quaint hamlet of Hollinsclough. Here, there’s a chance for a fuel stop at the village hall (weekends and bank holidays only) or Hollinsclough Honesty Shop (a garden room beside a stone-built house) at the far end of the village. To reach it take the left turn past the little chapel and the old school with its miniature bell tower.
At the Hollinsclough Honesty Shop, go left and enjoy the flat easy track past the base of Chrome Hill, revelling in the fact you’ve conquered the ridge above you. Cross the footbridge at the ford and continue to the unnamed lane where you came off Parkhouse Hill.
Turn right here and almost immediately veer left at a wooden fingerpost to follow the somewhat indistinct grassy path below Parkhouse Hill, which becomes clearer after a short distance. Continue downhill to the B5053 again.
6. This time turn right to follow the road down to Glutton Bridge (careful on this busier road). Turn left into a lane just after George Garage, passing between buildings. Look out for a path on your left. It climbs steeply up the hillside before skirting round Hitter Hill. Veer right to follow the field boundaries back down into the village of Earl Sterndale.
COMPASS POINTS
DISTANCE: 6.3 miles
GRID REFERENCE: SK 090 670
MAP: OS Explorer OL24 White Peak
DIFFICULTY: Precipitous sections on the ridged hills, particularly Parkhouse Hill. The alternative described offers an easy and pleasant route along the base of the hills.
REFRESHMENTS: Hollinsclough Village Hall or Hollinsclough Honesty Shop
