We find ourselves somewhat spoilt for choice when it comes to quality dining in Derbyshire, but while there are many fine eateries in and around Derby it is perhaps forgotten that other riches abound further afield in our county.
Venturing just north of Chesterfield and its famous crooked spire we sought out one such example in the Tickled Trout at Barlow.
Head chef Chris Mapp earned his spurs training in London before returning home and taking on the Tickled Trout with the aim of showcasing his passion for sustainability-led, high-quality food, and his passion for both the vision and the food is clear to see.
The menu is an astute balance of modern restaurant cuisine and crowd-pleasing pub classics, ensuring that all tastes are catered for and the primary purpose of serving as a public house is not lost.
Choices proved difficult to make from the enticing menu, such were the variety of delicious-looking options available, but eventually starters and mains were alighted upon.
A featherweight hollandaise foam-enveloped asparagus spears yielded easily to fork and knife, retaining bite and succulence at the same time (no mean feat for this often incorrectly cooked vegetable), with chunks of lightly spicy chorizo adding depth of flavour and a slow-cooked black garlic sauce imparting a deliciously savoury, almost char-grilled aspect.
Mackerel was generously offered in both fillet and pate form alongside tangy pickles for contrast, with the acidity of the pickles enhancing the flavoursome fish.
It would have been remiss not to try the chalkstream trout from the main course list; a chunky fillet perfectly flaking away, skin seared to crispness and served with a silky, creamy dill sauce stirred into tagliatelle, with a serving of sea greens for bite and texture.
Similarly impressive was the Highfield blade of beef, tender to the point of almost falling apart on command and partnered with a creamy swirl of mashed potato, chunky roasted carrots, oyster mushrooms and a deep, rich red wine jus.
A dusting of bone marrow crumb and a side serving of Irish cabbage with salty chunks of bacon afforded that little bit of something different which perfectly made the mark.
One glance at the dessert menu proved sufficient to overcome willpower, with something for every type of sweet tooth.
As tempting as the thought of a refreshing lemon meringue with raspberry sorbet might have been (as well as good representation for the chocolate lovers amongst us) the sticky toffee pudding had was a must-try.
Described as ‘famous’ on the menu and apparently a local favourite, this British classic certainly lived up to its billing.
Served with a scoop of deliciously creamy malt ice cream and a toffee sauce which was moreish without being sickly sweet, this light sponge offered plenty to savour and spent very little time in the serving dish.
For those readers more inclined towards a further savoury course to wrap up their meal the cheese board can be heartily recommended – a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk British cheeses ranging from nutty Somerset cheddar to a creamy Tunworth cheese (described as ‘Britain’s answer to camembert’, no less) served with crackers and a generous helping of onion chutney and an earthy honey truffle oil.
Also worth a mention is the Tickled Trout’s well-stocked wine cellar as is evidenced by the impressive list of bottles on offer, and this is no afterthought; wines are chosen carefully here and paired with the food on offer where possible.
Stuck for choice? Then why not try one of the staff pick wines, or simply ask for a recommendation. Like the food, wine is clearly a subject Chris Mapp is passionate about.
With accolades aplenty already secured, The Tickled Trout is fast developing a reputation for gastronomic delight, so book your table at one of Derbyshire’s hottest tickets.
