Spending Christmas at Rothay Manor Hotel in Ambleside

Christmas is a time steeped in tradition, a festival where every family has its own rituals and customs.

For Christmas dinner it usually means turkey, a convention that goes back to the time of Henry VII, although it was centuries later that it replaced goose to become a mainstay of the festive table.

Around ten million turkeys are said to be eaten in the UK at Christmas, and it will be served to guests staying at Rothay Manor Hotel. Most of those spending a festive break at the luxury, boutique hotel in Ambleside will arrive on December 24 to be welcomed by owners Jenna and Jamie Shail with mulled wine, mince pies and a harpist’s music.

Head chef Aaron Lawrence’s seasonal tasting menu will be served at dinner.

Head chef Aaron Lawrence with Rothay Manor Hotel's owners Jenna and Jamie Shail (Image: Sheenah Allcock)Christmas Day begins with a bucks fizz breakfast followed by a traditional lunch. After all that feasting, guests receive a hamper of goodies in the evening to take in their room or to enjoy by the fire in the hotel bar or lounge. On Boxing Day they can choose from the à la carte menu in the restaurant.

Ahead of all that, when invited to conjure up a special dinner for our festive photoshoot, Aaron decided to go rogue – or at least to offer something different – for the Christmas table.

His rack of lamb with stuffed apricot, pistachio farce, sweet and sour cabbage, seasonal vegetable gratin and lamb sauce is an impressive alternative for anyone turned off by turkey and offers a change for the traditionalists.

“It’s about playing with a few ideas,” says Aaron, who joined Rothay Manor earlier this year, “and who doesn’t like a lamp chop? It’s brilliant done on the barbecue too, but at this time of year is a really nice alternative.

Head chef Aaron Lawrence with Rothay Manor Hotel's owners Jenna and Jamie Shail (Image: Sheenah Allcock)

“There are no gels, foams or molecular cookery in this menu and nothing that you can’t get in the supermarket. You can take all the elements for Christmas or a dinner party or leave some out for a simpler meal.”

Aaron sources his meat from Lake District Farmers, Udales and Roast Mutton, in Kendal.

Reverting to a more typical ingredient for his Christmas starter, he chose Loch Duart salmon as cannelloni, transforming the fish into a visually stimulating first course with flavours to match. It was encased in a handmade saffron pasta with a salmon mousse made from the trimmings and diced salmon to give a mosaic effect.

“I use cured salmon but serve it with a smoked butter sauce which gives it the taste of hot smoked salmon but with a more delicate flavour,” explains Aaron. “It’s one of the first starters I put on the menu here and we have done a couple of variations of it since; I think this one looks good without being too difficult.”

Anyone who or is short of time or unable to make their own cannelloni can simply buy sheets of fresh pasta and cut them to fit.

On with the main course, and some of the accompaniments can be prepared on Christmas Eve; indeed the lamb belly used to make mini koftas is best left overnight.

The red cabbage and vegetable gratin could also be made ahead of time to free up the cook on Christmas Day, while the parsnips and sprouts can all be prepared ready for cooking.

There are possible shortcuts on Aaron’s beautiful dessert but following his method will impress anyone who is served the Muscovado and Pear Tartlet, Poached Mulled Pear and Rum Anglaise. Its rich, wine colours and flavours are perfect for the time of year and the crunch of nuts and crisp pastry combined with soft fruit make it a complete crowd pleaser.

He recommends using ripe pears. “I prefer conference and buy them to use around three weeks later, which gives them time to ripen at home.”

For Aaron, Christmas dinner may not come until January once all the hotel guests are looked after, although he will have the evening of December 25 off with his wife Vera and their nine-month-old daughter Joanna-Rebecca. “Vera’s a chef too and traditionally we used to finished work and go home and eat what we’d served at work,” he explains.

This year, Christmas guests at Rothay Manor include a family from Norway who visit every other year and many others who return regularly. Most come from within a two-hour journey time of Ambleside. And Santa Claus pays a secret visit too.

Guests on four legs are also welcome, staying in one of the hotel’s eight dog-friendly rooms. “Nobody wants to leave their dog behind at Christmas,” she adds. The hotel also has a dedicated dog wash and accessories.

Despite having a professional kitchen and team led by Aaron and sous chef Cameron Smith at the hotel, their own Christmas dinner is homemade by Jamie, with Jenna responsible for the cake and pudding for which she sticks to the same recipes every year.

In line with tradition, Jamie says it will be turkey this year with his homemade lemon, parsley, suet and bread crumb stuffing. “It’s the only thing I insist on and it’s part of our Christmas, as much as Jenna doesn’t like it. I start making the gravy two days before by cooking off the giblets,” he explains.

When it comes to the great sprout debate, Aaron – despite serving them for the Cumbria Life Christmas dinner – is not a fan, but Jamie cannot get enough of them. “It’s not Christmas without sprouts, I love them.”

rothaymanor.co.uk