Food review: Linthwaite House, Bowness-on-Windermere

I was thrilled to receive news that Linthwaite House – a beautiful hotel venue near Bowness where I've previously enjoyed delightful cocktails and snacks while taking in the stunning views – is now offering all-day dining in addition to drinks and nibbles. The restaurant occupies the space that previously served as a lounge and breakfast area for hotel guests and offered welcome drinks for Simon Rogan’s Henrock. The views across Windermere to the Langdales are magnificent.

I remember fondly (despite the blustery weather) the summer lunch John and I shared on the terrace during the Covid pandemic, when outdoor activities were permitted. I felt so fortunate to have options like this available to us during those challenging times.

Excited about the recent changes, including the arrival of the new chef Gerald van der Welt, who shares roots with the hotel's South African owner and is now an honorary Cumbrian like myself, I couldn't wait to visit for lunch and to catch up with him.

Apricot parfait served with apricot gel and pistachio crumble

Having enjoyed Gerald’s simpler dishes at Yew Tree Barn, at Low Newton, where the in-house Harry’s Café Bar has won various awards, and witnessed his skills when cooking together in a private dining setting, I was eager to see how his creativity would flourish in this new location.

The dishes we ordered very much reflected Gerald’s philosophy as I had come to understand it: a strong desire to showcase local and seasonal ingredients with emphasis placed on balance and purpose, with every ingredient on the plate necessary for a harmonious eating experience.

These days I tend to favour shorter menus for their focus on freshness, precision in cooking, and attention to detail and choosing from the carefully curated selection of starters, mains and desserts was easy and quick allowing my attention to linger on the beautiful surroundings and views whilst waiting.

One half of the toasted sourdough sandwich of brisket, caramelised onion and Thornby Moor Blue Whinnow cheese

RECOMMENDED READING

For my starter, I opted for the beetroot and goat’s cheese combination, which was perfectly balanced with the addition of spiced cashew nuts and a mustard dressing. John, on the other hand, enjoyed the oxtail fritter, relishing its rich beef flavour and silky texture.

We then shared a pan toasted sourdough sandwich of brisket, caramelised onion and Thornby Moor Blue Whinnow cheese filling. This presented a problem for John who is not a lover of blue cheese, but the accommodating nature of the staff came to the rescue by serving my half with cheese and his half without.

Over time I have found that the willingness of a kitchen to be flexible with menu choices has become as important to me as the quality of the food.

Roasted butternut squash barley risotto The roasted butternut squash barley risotto was a delightful combination of flavours and textures, elevated by the ingenious addition of Alfredo sauce, soy-toasted pumpkin seeds and parmesan crisps.

When it came to desserts, there was one that instantly caught my eye and I am happy to say that it was a real winner. The light and crunchy choux bun filled with the creamiest lemon curd custard and topped with torched glossy meringue was both very attractive visually and mouth-wateringly appetising.

I have always had a sweet tooth, so I usually order a dessert for myself and also one for John (which I proceed to eat on his behalf). So my second choice, comprising apricot parfait served with apricot gel and pistachio crumble, looked as pretty as any still life picture and was a harmony of sweetness, acidity and creaminess.

Whisky galore in the bar at Linthwaite House On our way out, John commented on how eclectically the bar was stocked (his eye goes immediately to the whisky collection of any bar we walk into). I, meanwhile, had enjoyed looking closely at all the art displayed throughout the eating area and the adjacent lounge.

I left on our short drive home delighted to have a new dining option to share with visiting family and friends, knowing that every aspect of the experience, from the views to the service and food, will be thoroughly enjoyable.

I know that I repeat myself but it is worth reminding ourselves to feel the joy and gratitude for having so many options for recreation and culinary pleasure on our doorstep.

leeucollection.com