Benoit Blin has been Raymond Blanc's Head Pastry Chef at the award-winning Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in Oxfordshire, UK since 1995. A judge and host on Channel 4's Bake Off: The Professionals, the talented chef is passionate about supporting future pastry chefs. In 2005, he was awarded the title of Master of Culinary Arts, the most prestigious pastry accolade in the UK, and in 2009 was recognised as Pastry Chef of the Year. Here, he reveals his food loves.
Tell us about your new book
Three quarters of the recipes were devised during the lockdown, and it was about having to adapt and adjust recipes I needed to do for my family. But it’s a book for everybody who wants to elevate their bakes within the comfort of their own kitchen with equipment and ingredients you can source easily. The recipes are ones I like to do at home, so it sits in my kitchen. I even went against my publisher and put my mum’s rice pudding in there, which isn’t a bake, but I wanted it in there.
A favourite from the book?
Kouign Amann - a laminated bread dough with butter and sugar, so it’s definitely not good for you, but it tastes delicious. I’ve done it with a beautiful sour apple compote, so it’s perfect for this time of the year, and it cuts down the sweetness and the richness of the cake which works really nicely. I love it for breakfast.
A childhood food memory?
I have so many, but I love the story of the financier – a very rich little almond sponge cake – it’s one of the reasons I became a pastry chef. I went to visit a market town when I was little with one of my aunties and she took me into a pastry shop and there it was – a beautiful little rectangle financier – almond, buttery, sweet, little sponge cake. I had one and it clicked – I thought if I became a chef I could eat as many as I want. I could have eaten three or four easily, but I was just given one. It was so sweet and such a revelation for me – that flavour combination between the almond and the dark rum. From there that little idea grew into baking at home and my parents became my guineapigs.
A favourite meal?
Paella with fresh seafood and, in the summer, I’ll do a lovely strawberry tart – a beautiful pistachio tart garnished with a beautiful pistachio cream and, on top, slices of strawberry glaze with strawberry jam. In the winter, it’s a tarte tatin – you pick the right apples and do a lovely caramel puff pastry, and you have a lovely dessert.
A chef who inspires?
I find that a difficult question as it’s not fair to pinpoint one chef. Going back to the year I was becoming a pastry chef, one of the great inspirations for me was Gaston Lenôtre - one of the greatest pastry chefs of his time - transforming pâtisserie from what used to be just butter, cakes and sponges to the beauty of desserts you could sell in the cold display of a shop. He elevated the pastry shop to how we know it today. He was one of those revolutionary minds of the 60s and 70s who changed the outcome of all jobs in the industry. My very first book was his and it still lives in my cupboard.
A memorable moment on Bake Off?
I have many! The first is the first season of Bake Off because no one knew what they were trying to do. We were doing a very high-level competition that no one had organised before on TV, where you have the world of pastry coming together, trying to recreate what we were doing in the world cup of pastry into a programme but not understanding how long it took to do things. The day would start at 6am and finish at 2am the next day. Even though it was really enjoyable, it was horrendous as, by the end of the day, you could see the cameramen dropping their camera as they were getting really heavy. It was like going into a battle as you were pushed mentally and physically. Without that though we wouldn’t be now going into our tenth season, but now we film each episode over two days.
Another is one of the show pieces – a croquembouche. One of the team decided to stick some chocolate on top. Chocolate and sugar don’t combine too well, and they also spread. We were there looking at that miracle of engineering, but I knew it would collapse. We took a break and ended up holding it to support it just in case, but it lasted. Eventually, when we got to the final judging moment, it collapsed!
Who would be at your fantasy dinner party - and what would you eat?
It’s a tough question! I love the idea of all the chefs you’ve worked with in some way and getting them all round a banquet table and you all cook a little something for each other. I used to do this with my friends for Christmas. We’d all get together, and I had my little blue apron that I started at Le Manoir with, and we were all cooking a course of this five-course meal – whoever cooked a course had to wear the apron. I love the idea of sharing with people, and they can all bring something to it whatever their skill is. When you cook for people you know, you cook with your heart and you’re free – you can really cook at your best and share.
What’s your biggest tip for people cooking desserts/bakes?
Once you have your basic kit you can just go from there. Read the recipe, check the type of equipment and the size that you’re using as you may need to adapt the recipe slightly. The amount you use will have an impact on the bake you see, but there are references everywhere in my book to try and guide you as best as possible.
A guilty food pleasure?
I have a very big sweet tooth and Haribo sweets are my downfall, particularly the liquorice swirls and the little strawberries – I love them! The best is eating them together, don’t ask me to explain why. I am trying to stay away, but when the pot is open next to me, I can’t help myself!
A favourite bake
Madeleines are a French classic which often people are presenting in the wrong way as they place the shell upwards, but I prefer to place them with the hump of the madeleine upwards. It’s such a lovely classic.
