Tracy Spiers celebrates all that is brilliant about Burford, including a few of its more characterful residents
Set on the River Windrush, with a welcoming broad iconic High Street, Burford is quite simply beautiful. Lord Nelson enjoyed dining here, and King Charles II and Nell Gwyn stayed at the George Hotel several times. Today, visitors appreciate the modern comforts of the 21st century, but it’s easy to imagine being back in historic times surrounded by stunning timeless characterful old houses.
But, whilst many are drawn to the beauty of Burford for its outstanding appearance, what I wish to highlight here is the inner beauty of what is a relatively tiny community. Still waters run deep, and what you find in this delightful Cotswold town is beauty in the unseen – often what tourists miss. Spend enough time here and one sees that the real working out of this word is the way folk care for each other. In celebrating the beauty of Burford, then, I believe it also has something to do with its POSITION, both historically and geographically; its PEOPLE – the faces one meets when visiting; and its PLACES, notably the architectural gems and attractive treasures one finds here.
I visit with my Mum, Jan on a sunny spring day. Honey-coloured buildings gleam in the light. History smiles along with the present, celebrating what was and is. A year ago, the town was about to lose its post office, and thanks to a tremendous crowd-funding effort, £10,000 was raised within three weeks. Sally Colter of Mrs Bumbles of Burford, the adjacent deli, stepped forward as post mistress and whilst it means getting up for 5.30am to sort out the newsagent side, she says it’s been worth it. Having lost their bank as well it means businesses can now use the post office. It has proved a hub for the community and is an example of how a population of just under 1,600 people, can pull together for the good of all.
Before I introduce a few of the faces that make Burford what it is, it is perhaps wise to unpack the beauty of Burford’s position geographically and historically.
POSITION
The entry to Burford is quite stunning. Its famous High Street, lined with its iconic trees, sweeps downhill towards a three-arched medieval bridge at the bottom where the River Windrush flows.
‘As you slowly drive from the top of the High Street, you can see the hills beyond. Whatever the weather, I never tire of it. You can see why Burford is called the Gateway to the Cotswolds,’ says Burford town clerk Maggie Andrews, who has worked with four mayors over the past 24 years.
I meet her halfway down this hill at The Tolsey, an impressive 16th-century building, once the meeting place for medieval merchants, now home to the town council offices and The Tolsey Museum, which celebrates Burford’s social and industrial past.
The town’s rich collection of architectural buildings and its history are very much connected. The name Burford originates from two old English words ‘burh’ meaning fortified town and ‘ford,’ the crossing of a river. It’s thought the town was founded as an Anglo-Saxon fortified settlement around 750AD to protect the ford over the River Windrush.
St John the Baptist Church has intriguing memorials with many ‘bale tombs’, so named due to their fluted and rounded tops. Inside the church are reminders of Oliver Cromwell’s imprisonment and execution of the Levellers. Anthony Sedley, one Leveller besieged in the church in 1649, engraved his signature on the baptismal font. According to historian Simon Jenkins, Burford’s parish church is one of the 1,000 best churches in England and is a legacy from the town’s medieval wealth of the wool period.
Give-away archways are clues to Burford’s importance as a staging post on the main Oxford to Gloucester route. It evolved as a vital regional crossroads with over 40 coaches a day passing through at one time. It also is home to Reavley’s, England’s oldest pharmacy which dates to 1734.
Many a competition took place at the town’s own racecourse in the mid-18th century. It was at this time that three local brothers, famously known as Tom, Dick and Harry, turned to a life of crime, including highway robbery. As historic-uk.com puts it:
Three brothers, Harry, Tom and Dick Dunsdon were famous 18th-century highwaymen in Oxfordshire, known as 'The Burford Highwaymen'. Legend has it that Sampson Pratley fought one of these brothers in the Royal Oak Inn in Field Assarts. The fight was really a wager to see who was the strongest and the prize was to be a sack of potatoes for the winner. Sampson Pratley won, but never got his potatoes as two of the brothers, Tom and Harry, were caught shortly afterwards and hanged at Gloucester in 1784. Their bodies were brought back to Shipton-under-Wychwood and gibbeted from an oak tree. Dick Dunsdon had bled to death when Tom and Harry had had to cut off one of his arms to free his hand which was trapped in a door-shutter, as they were attempting to rob a house.
Another significant fact in Burford’s history relates to Christopher Kempster, who made a fortune by providing Burford stone, masons, and carvers for the rebuilding of London after the Great Fire of 1666. Stone from Burford forms the Great dome of St Paul’s Cathedral, which Kempster help build, whilst his son built the clock tower.
PEOPLE
I have already mentioned some historic characters, but it is the faces one meets in Burford today that makes the community what it is. The buildings don’t change over the years, but the people serving their customers do. It is exciting to see familiar faces as well as new ones each time I visit. Today is no exception. Michelin-trained pastry chef Cindy Kosmala opened Hugo Lovage Patisserie at the end of August 2021. It’s a joint business venture with her husband Hubert, head chef of award-winning The Swan Inn at Swinbrook just up the road, and Gin in a Tin, run by Martin Agius and his daughter. The Kosmalas run the patisserie whilst their business partner provides the gin.
‘Hubert and I have three sons: a teenager, toddler and baby, so I see the shop as my girl baby with all the pretty colours, decorations and lots of pink,’ says Cindy, who specialises in baked cheesecake, bavarois, eclairs, cookies, Battenburg and her speciality – meringue towers. She also serves coffee, and supports another small business, Jericho Coffee, run by a New Zealand couple in Oxford.
‘We have just introduced a take-away afternoon tea, which comes in a special box, has a tiered stand and is of Michelin star standard. Eventually we hope to introduce gin tastings here.’
Everything in the shop cries out ‘eat me,’ or ‘drink me,’ which is rather apt as Cindy will be providing 100 Alice in Wonderland teas for the popular Burford Festival on June 15 at the Warwick Hall.
‘I will be making bunny rabbit salted caramel choux buns, macaroons shaped like clocks and ‘eat me’ Battenburg. It will be a lot of fun,’ she adds.
It’s at events such as Burford Festival, which started in 2001 as a biennial event, where local people come together. This takes place from Friday, June 10 until Sunday, June 19 in 2022, and has a packed programme of 55 events, including music (blues, choral, classical, jazz and folk), literary events, special interest talks, film and theatre, outdoor party with stalls, Burford's Open Gardens and lots of other activities that showcase and celebrate life in the town. Leading up to this is a special celebration in honour of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee where, on Sunday, June 5, Burford is hosting a big street party. Cindy Kosmala will be making a 600x400 cm cake fit for the Queen and her people.
Michael Taubenheim is a well-known face in town. As deputy mayor, chairman of the Scout group committee and owner of several businesses, including Three French Hens, he has his finger on the pulse. He lives at Greyhounds, an outstanding B&B in the idyllic and quiet Sheep Street, off the High Street; in the same street he was born. He gives us a tour of his impressive courtyards and peaceful garden – complete with its ancient mulberry tree – which is a secret haven. In fact, this is a fine example of Burford’s hidden treasures. There are many secret gardens in this town, each exquisite and unique. As part of Burford Festival, many residents open their gardens up to visitors.
‘We have 68 shops and about 64 of them are one-offs, which is remarkable for a High Street. We have free parking and no time limit, which is quite unheard of. Burford is a destination in every sense,’ says Michael.
One shop which has served Burford customers and visitors well over the decades is WJ Castle Farm Shop. Graham Drinkwater has worked here for 30 years and has served many with his cheerful smile. ‘Burford is a pretty place; people are relaxed, and we get a great section of people coming in, all friendly and supportive,’ he tells me, as I buy a Scotch egg for my lunch.
Meanwhile, Kim Harvey, owner of The Madhatter Bookshop on Burford High Street, is playing her part in drawing the community together. Kim is Creative Director of Burford Literary Festival which takes place September 22-25, following the success of the first one last year. It promises to be another inspiring four-day packed programme featuring authors with expertise in a wide range of topics and genres, including history, politics, the natural world, poets, pioneers, innovators and of course children’s literature.
‘I wanted to establish a literary festival that not only brought the community together, but most importantly was accessible to all, with events free for children and students. We work with Burford School and Burford Primary School, and this year authors will be going into the schools,’ says Kim.
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‘I love the fact that Burford is on the tick list for tourists, and we frequently get lots of people coming here from all over the country, but it is still a town with the community at the heart of it. Burford has a strong community and I love being part of it.
Sally Colter, owner of Mrs Bumbles of Burford, has almost completed a year of being the town’s postmistress.
‘I had to retrain, but the two roles go hand in hand, although it does mean getting up a lot earlier for the 5.30am papers. We put a ramp in the post office, and it is dog-friendly, too. I love the community here, and being postmistress has helped me get to know more people,’ says Sally.
PLACES
The place of Burford is beautiful to walk round simply for its timelessness. Many come to browse round the shops, dine in the town’s plethora of restaurants, pubs and coffee shops, and hundreds will enjoy this year’s festivals. There are lovely walks and cycle rides around Burford, some which can be downloaded. The countryside around the villages of the Windrush Valley is certainly worth investigating. But there are also two significant landmarks a few minutes out of town, and both are family-owned businesses, namely Burford Garden Company, and the Cotswold Wildlife Park.
From its beginning as a plant nursery five decades ago, Burford Garden Company has grown to become one of the country’s best independent retail experiences. Spanning some 15 acres and beautifully curated with stylish gardenalia, eclectic home interiors, cool boutique clothing and a burgeoning art gallery and reading room, this destination venue is synonymous with sourcing the ‘hard-to-find’. Mum and I enjoy walking round admiring the feast of colour.
I personally wish we had time to also visit Cotswold Wildlife Park this time; home to over 1,500 animals in its 160-acre parkland. It first opened over 50 years ago with 341 animals, and George, the Aldabra giant tortoise, has been there since its very first day, March 27, 1970 (Good Friday).
The collection is home to many endangered species, including Humboldt penguins, wolverines, red pandas, cotton-top tamarins and Asiatic lions, and The Reptile House contains one of the most interesting collections in the country.
Many parents (mine included) have brought their children to see the animals – be it the iconic rhinos or tiny leaf-cutter ants – over the years, including Bear Grylls OBE, chief scout and adventurer, who states: ‘I’ve brought my children here for years. It’s a great way to introduce them to wildlife.’
So, one can see why Burford is such a crowd-puller. It is beautiful on the outside, with much to see and experience that is pleasing to the eye, but perhaps more importantly it is beautiful within. The community, whilst small, is strong.
I leave the final words with deputy mayor Michael Taubenheim.
‘I like the phrase it takes a village to raise a boy, and this boy is very happy with his village.’
