Separated by Looe River with a bridge linking east with west, Looe is in an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. As well as beautiful beaches, the charming seaside town and picturesque harbour ensure its credentials as a popular tourist destination. Wander its maze of narrow streets and discover an eclectic range of independent shops, restaurants and traditional Cornish pubs.
In fact, visitors may well feel some of the places are familiar. Looe plays the fictional town of Shipton Abbott in the BBC’s mystery drama, Beyond Paradise starring Kris Marshall as DI Humphrey Goodman. The show’s idyllic setting has New Guildhall doubling as the police station, Banjo Pier and Fore Street featuring as locations. But off screen, there’s no drama, just a lovely relaxed vibe with a welcoming community. Fans of the show can follow in the footsteps of Humphrey and Martha and discover Looe’s secrets on a walking tour.
As autumn beckons and the crowds diminish there is still plenty to discover. ‘Our beaches, woodland and wildlife are why people love to visit in the summer but there is plenty to explore throughout the year,’ says Mayor Tony Smith, 'Our community works hard to create an abundance of events including the annual Raft Race, food, music and literature festivals, Christmas Lantern Parade and New Years fireworks.’
From coastal walks, boat trips, fishing excursions and beach combing, there’s plenty to keep all the family happily occupied.
A mile offshore is Looe Island, an unspoilt haven for wildlife and rare plants. Once the home of the Atkins sisters, it was gifted to Cornwall Wildlife Trust in 2004 and its surrounding waters are now a marine conservation zone. Take one of the boat trips over to the island and see cormorants, oyster catchers and in the summer months grey seals basking on the rocks. For those unable to get over to the island there’s a new webcam. The trust began airing footage this spring so come rain or shine everyone can enjoy the sights and sounds from the south of the island.
Dan Gummow, owner of Looe Sea Safaris has spent most of his life either in or on the sea and is passionate about showing what Looe’s surrounding waters have to offer, whether it is spotting dolphins, fishing for mackerel or taking a trip out to Looe Island, Dan’s your man.
If you want to find cool crabs, stunning starfish and lovely sounding strawberry anemones explore the rocky shore with those that know. Looe Marine Conservation Group regularly hold rockpool rambles at Hannafore Beach. Alternatively relax on the soft sand at East Looe Beach, take an early morning swim in the clear waters or enjoy an ice-cream on the promenade.
This year, there’s a new festival for bookworms. The Festival of Words runs from October 1 to 6 with workshops, author talks, pop-up storytelling, book fair and an intrigued writing themed rockpool ramble.
One way to see Looe is to take the train. The Looe Valley line runs from Liskard. Enjoy the passing scenery as it changes from woodland valley to estuary views on its way to the town. The line runs six days a week, all year round.
Seafood is best enjoyed outside one of the waterfront restaurants and Looe's is famously fresh. Watch the boats come in before tucking in to the catch of the day. A stone’s throw from the water is the small but cool restaurant The Fish Market. Run by Fred Alsop, visitors can sit at the counter and watch him create dishes such as hand-picked crab with granny smith apple and shiso leaf.
In the heart of the town, Sarah’s Pasty shop is easy to find, just follow the delicious aromas to the old fishing cottage near Buller Street. Flavours include tradition Cornish, Chinese chicken and chickpea and lentil; its worth queuing for.
Looe is also home to the Copperfish Distillery which sells, ‘proper spirits, made proper’ including spiced rum and its beautifully bottled retro fruit gins. Made from scratch in small batches at its premises on the quay, you can try before you buy at the Copperfish Bar. And while on the subject of a tipple, just outside the town is Looe Valley Vineyard. To see what’s made it award winning, take a tour led by knowledgeable owner and winemaker Charles Boney.
Last year’s MasterChef finalist, Charlie Walters has recently returned to his Cornish roots opening a new restaurant at The Gate. The small plate menu features a mix of traditional Cornish flavours with a modern twist.
Chef Ben Palmer grew up in the town and runs The Sardine Factory in West Looe. This year he competed on the Great British Menu, winning the south west region; his golden beetroot starter was showcased in the Paris banquet final.
Ben has just finish promoting Looe’s food scene heading up the Food and Drink Festival. The one-day event in September champions everything from Cornish street food to local organic peanut butter with live music and chef demos.
‘I used to fish outside The Sardine Factory when I was a kid and it was always a dream to open a restaurant in my own town.' Overlooking the harbour, the award-winning restaurant lets its fresh ‘ingredients do the talking’, with dishes including chowder, fish tacos and smoked haddock Scotch egg.
‘I get lobsters landed in the morning and they can be on my menu at 12 o’clock,’ adds Ben.
'I love the people here; there’s a good sense of community spirit. An annual raft race which starts from the beach and goes round the pier is always great fun. You can walk from Looe to Polperro along the coastal path and there are some nice cafes on the way, or stop off at Talland Bay Hotel for the lobster. Off the path there’s a beach, Portnadler Bay. You can only get there by walking to it but it’s quite private and beautiful.
'My kids still love crabbing and you can crab outside the restaurant. I like to swim in the sea in the morning and still enjoy going for boat trips; mackerel fishing is big here. I popped into a great new cocktail bar the other day called Choklet, it's the Cornish word for chocolate and Cody Shack do awesome fish and chips. People don’t realise how pretty it is Looe is. It’s quintessential Cornwall.'
For those craving the simple life, it can be found at Gwel Teg (formerly Feather Down Looe Farm). The Dennis family have farmed in this idyllic area for 35 years. The mixed farm has sheep with cute lambs in spring, cattle and two friendly goats who love to say hello. Accommodation in a canvas hideaway overlooking a meadow sleeps five. It has beds – yes proper ones, a shower, toilet and wood burning stove. Book through featherdown.co.uk.
From rustic to chic at Talland Bay, a boutique country house hotel tucked away on a secluded stretch of coast. Stay in one of 20 luxury rooms or a garden cottage; our favourite is The Featherington which conjures up Bridgerton vibes. Each has its own bespoke design by artist in residence Penny Oatham. The hotel also has an award-winning restaurant which showcases Cornish produce including a nine-course tasting menu. It’s called ‘an old country home of wonderful peculiarity' – that may be the table embedded in the upstairs landing wall.
For the wow factor, Cornish Collection boasts Tregolva. Imagine walking out on to a deck, glass of bubbles in hand, with the sweeping views of Looe, the river and sea. This is what awaits guests staying at Tregolva. The four-bedroom house sleeps six and has an open plan living area with bi-fold doors which open up on to the large deck. Situated in East Looe, it is in the ideal location close to the beach and the town. It can be booked though the Cornish Collection.
Jane’s vibrant, multi-layered paintings originate from the coast, landscape and flora around Looe. Visitors are welcome to her studio off Portuan Road, but call first as she is often on the coastal path getting inspiration.
Looe’s oldest pub The Jolly Sailor has reported some ghostly goings on over the years, from doors opening, chairs moving and voices. A paranormal investigator has confirmed the presence of spirits, and we are not talking Jack Daniels. Stay if you dare.
