This peninsula, originally called Lys Ardh meaning high place, sits at the most southerly tip of mainland Britain. Facing the full force of the Atlantic Ocean, the Lizard is both beautiful and untamed creating some spectacular displays on the rocky headlands on stormy days. In contrast, on calm sunny days head to some of Cornwall’s most stunning beaches including Kynance Cove. Its unusual metamorphic rock, a serpentine stone formed 400 million years ago, has intrigued geologists and visitors for centuries. Dark green in appearance with veins of red and white running through its surface, it is said to resemble that of a serpent. Queen Victoria was known to have liked the stone and commissioned a fireplace using it to be built at Osbourne House on the Isle of Wight. A few serpentine turners can still be found in Lizard Town. The Lizard is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural beauty and home to some 600 species of flowering plants, including Cornish heather, the county’s flower and found only in this area. Follow the narrow lanes to sheltered coves with azure blue seas and little fishing villages paused in time.
‘The Lizard Peninsula is a must-visit destination for its breathtaking coastal scenery, abundant wildlife, and opportunities for stunning photography,’ says Mike Steel from Visit Cornwall. The area is renowned for its rich biodiversity, attracting nature enthusiasts and photographers eager to capture the unique flora and fauna that thrive in this region, as well as the wildlife that calls the Lizard home. Sheltered coves and the tranquil creeks of the Helford River offer serene spots perfect for exploring, whether that's by foot or on the water.
'The vibrant town of Porthleven is quickly becoming a hotspot for foodies with its exceptional dining options and charming harbourside atmosphere,' Mike continues. Flanked by coast on three sides this is an area with plenty of walks to wander and points of interest to ponder.
Go explore
When Ken Jones found an hours-old baby seal at St Agnes beach near his garden in the 1950s, little did he know it would lead to a lifetime of caring for these doe-eyed creatures.
Now part of the SEA LIFE Trust, the Cornish Seal Sanctuary rescues and rehabilitates seal pups from around the county. Visitors can experience these wonderful marine animals up close and learn their individual stories.
‘Summer is the perfect time to come and see what the sanctuary is all about, meet our resident seals and rescue puffins and see our conservation work come to life,’ says the sanctuary’s Helene Weston.
To see seals and other wildlife in their natural habitat, head to the National Trust's Wildlife Watchpoint at Lizard Point, the most southerly point of mainland Britain. Borrow binoculars from the friendly volunteers and find what’s been spotted that day. Highlights are the Atlantic grey seals but in summer dolphins, porpoise, sunfish and the occasional whale can also be seen. It’s a bird-spotters paradise with Cornish choughs often visiting.
In spring don’t miss Flora Day, held in early May in Helston. Dancers accompanied by a band weave their way through the town - one dance is in top hat and tails. While in Helston, try the nearby New Yard Restaurant, it has a beautiful rural setting amidst the Trelowarren Estate.
In January 1901, from a remote wooden hut father of radio, Guglielmo Marconi sent the first transatlantic radio transmission from Poldhu to Newfoundland, paving the way for worldwide communication. Now a small museum, manned by knowledgeable volunteers from the Poldu Amaetur Radio Club it provides a fascinating insight into life before smart phones.
Leave technology at home and get a different perspective of the peninsular with Lizard Adventures, who offer kayaking, paddleboarding, surfing and coasteering. Discover some more secluded parts of the coast, you may get to meet some of the local wildlife too. ‘It gives people the chance to see places that even the locals don’t know about,’ says director Chris Brown.
Each April, foodies converge on the picture-postcard Porthleven for a feast of a festival. Celebrating Cornwall’s food, the three-day award-winning food festival takes over the town with brilliant chef demos, live music and lots to eat. Also in Porthleven, Dan Dan the Lobster Man knows his seafood is fresh as he catches it himself. Working with his daughter Jasmine, try the colourful crab tacos from his harbourside shack.
There’s a rumour that the best pasty in Cornwall can be found between Mawgan and St Martin. Gear Farm Pasty Company may be off the beaten track but it’s worth taking a detour for. Run by the Webb family, they make hundreds each day including traditional beef, cheese and vegetable; preorder as they often sell out.
Walkers on the peninsular coastal walk will get a warm welcome from Gary and Helen at the Cadgwith Cove Inn. The picturesque village is worth a visit.
Check in
There’s a host of reasons to stay at Housel Bay, a family-run hotel amidst the rugged wilderness of Lizard Point. Whether it’s for the stunning scenery, to get back to nature or tuck into inspired seasonal dishes in its AA three rosette awarded restaurant, Fallowfields. Visitors have access to a secret beach, entered from the hotel’s garden. Past guests at the historic Victorian hotel have include Guglielmo Marconi.
Alternatively, channel your inner child with a stay in a one-bedroom treehouse available through coolstays.com. Set on hillside near the pretty village of Gweek, Skapya has a lovely Nordic inspired interior, but fear not, there are mod-cons. Best of all is its log-fired hot Dutch hot tub set under the stars in a quiet clearing. Owners Patrick and Maddie Spink have restored the three acre area ‘creating a haven for wildlife and guests in our little slice of Cornwall.’
For a touch of romance in a spectacular setting Mullion Cove Hotel and Spa is hard to beat. Rejuvenate in the spa, watch crashing waves from the bar or enjoy walks along the nearby coastal path. It regularly receives rave reviews on its hospitality and service which it describes as ‘first class service as it used to be, yet without a hint of stuffiness.’
All scream for ice cream
We all need a fairy godmother and Joe Roskilly found his when he inherited his godmother’s farm in Tregellast Barton Farm in St Keverne. ‘My father loved wildlife and was ahead of his time, while farmers were being paid to clear hedges he refused and the left ancient hedgerows and added ponds,’ says Toby Roskilly. Already making clotted cream from the milking herd, in 1987 the family decided to diversify into ice cream. What began with 25 Jersey cows has grown into a flourishing family business with 30 flavours of ice cream, sorbets and frozen yoghurt, a menagerie of animals, shop and restaurant. The latest venture is open-fired cooking led by Toby’s son Tom who shares: ‘Our family has always had a lot of campfires outside and now it’s become a thing here at the farm.’
‘It’s the greenest bit of Cornwall,’ says Toby. A favourite walk is down to Coverak from the farm heading towards Dean Quarry around Lowland Point. There’s an Ice Age, raised beach and when you look at the profile it makes sense; it’s a very unusual landscape. It takes you past the old salt works where they used to make salt about 2000 years ago, pots from this area have been found in France. It’s a really ancient landscape. In Coverack, stop off at the Paris, then wander home up the other path to St Keverne and back to the farm. There is something about that area, it’s as untouched as it gets.
‘Fat Apples Cafe is my favourite restaurant, it's a lovely little place and it’s difficult not to mention Kynance Cove as its stunning. The walks around there are beyond belief. It’s a good place to go at any time of the day. I like to find a little spot somewhere away from Kynance where the coastline just catches the sunset.'
Lizard Art
This co-operative of artists, including Sarah Trewhella, whose work is pictured, take inspiration from the wild landscape of the Lizard. The gallery in the Trelowarren Estate, near Helston. is open from Easter to October.
Lake rambles
Loe Pool is Cornwall’s largest freshwater lake. It’s part of the National Trust’s Penrose Estate, with 17 miles of multi-use tracks through woodland, parkland and beach. Refuel at The Stables cafe.
