Candia McKormack spends a few days in Cornish smuggling country
I left a little piece of my heart on the Rame Peninsula.
READ MORE: Discover the Rame Peninsula, the hidden corner of Cornwall
Said by Country Life magazine to be ‘Johnny Depp’s favourite Cornwall village’ (if you’re reading this, Johnny, the restraining order’s up for renewal, btw), the charming village of Cawsand is only three miles from Plymouth as the crow flies, but feels like a good couple of centuries away.
Following a townie stopover in Exeter on our way south, it was a mere hour-and-twenty before we reached our dreamy destination, winding our way down the narrow – strictly one-way only – lanes of the twin, intertwined villages of Cawsand and Kingsand. We were booked into the unusually-named Blue Monkey for three nights, and we immediately knew we were in the right place when greeted with the eponymous dog’s bowl outside a large heavy wooden door.
Now, from the street you may think Blue Monkey a cosy fisherman’s cottage, but it goes on forever. Stretching back, away from Garrett Street, and up into three storeys, the handsome 18th-century property comfortably sleeps 10 – across three double bedrooms, a twin and a bunk room – and it carries its five stars with traditional, understated style. The generous farmhouse-style kitchen is a great base in which to gather the clan and hatch plans, and it was here that our Cornish welcome hamper awaited us... sourdough bread, local butter and clotted cream, shortbread, scones, chutney and more (the fizz in the fridge door was particularly welcome).
On the welcome notes it states that the house is just 25 metres from the sea... and it really is. We found ourselves taking to foot and ferry for most of our time in the area and were very happy to give the car a few days off. Within moments of stepping out the front door, you can be on the pretty Cawsand beach in one direction, or exploring the craggy rockpools off The Cleave in the other. In fact, the charm of Cawsand is such that you may feel tempted to stay put and not explore, but that would be a shame.
The first night, we decide the best way to get to know the locals is to do a mini pub crawl, and with three good pubs within spitting distance of the ‘Monkey’, it wasn’t too hard an undertaking. Within half an hour we had found a warm welcome, a sing-song round the bar, and a landlord who treated one of our party like a long-lost brother. Yes, we felt right at home.
An absolute must when visiting the area is to catch the Cawsand Ferry. For just a few quid and no advance booking, you can be taken across Plymouth Sound from Cawsand beach to the Barbican Landing Stage. The ferry has been running for over 100 years, and the experience – from boarding the shallow-draft boat, which comes right up on to the sand, to the views of Drake’s Island – is a delight. You may even be lucky enough to meet ship’s dog Bramble (she loves a tummy rub, for info).
A short distance from the Barbican is Plymouth Aquarium – The National Marine Aquarium (NMA) - which is officially the largest in the UK. Run by the Ocean Conservation Trust, it’s both an education in the important work being done by the charity, while also being a breathtaking spectacle. Your journey around the aquarium takes you from Plymouth Sound, via the local sharks and rays of Eddystone Reef and the sand tiger sharks of the Atlantic Ocean (this tank alone is a massive 2.5 million litres of water), to the dazzlingly colourful Great Barrier Reef exhibit.
While in Plymouth, it’s worth checking out the many delights it has to offer (we made an itinerary, but soon ran out of time), including its major new museum, art gallery and archive – The Box; the Mayflower Steps, where it’s believed the Pilgrim Fathers boarded the Mayflower for North America in 1620; The Plymouth Gin Distillery (housed in an early 15th-century former monastery); and the rather fabulous historic bars and restaurants set on the cobbled streets along the water’s edge.
Before you could say ‘bottle of grog’, though, it was time to board the ferry for another scenic boat ride – and Bramble belly-rubs – back to Cawsand beach. Again, if you’re not used to such shallow-drafted boats, the sensation you’re about to run aground as you near – and then practically mount – the beach is palpable. We put ourselves in the very capable hands of our captain and are still here to tell the tale.
An evening sitting around the log-burner, chatting, had us making plans for the following day, which involved more walking... and more views. Oh, the views!
Awaking to brilliant autumn sunshine was the encouragement we needed to make an early start (after a full English, of course), and head out on the South West Coast Path towards St Michael’s Chapel, at the southerly tip of Rame Head. The land – part of the 885-acre Mount Edgcumbe Country Park – is grazed by Dartmoor ponies, which only adds to the charm, and takes in some stunning views across the impossibly blue-green waters.
The walk from Blue Monkey to the chapel is around three miles if you take the coastal path, and this I’d recommend for those views and the rather special Queen Adelaide’s Grotto/Chapel set near Penlee Point.
Cut into the cliff edge, the part-cave-part-folly was constructed to commemorate the 1827 visit of William IV and Princess Adelaide to Mount Edgcumbe, just four years before she was crowned Queen Consort. Entering via a tunnel, you emerge into a vaulted three-sided chamber with Gothic-style arches opening onto truly astonishing views over the Sound. Before being transformed into the Gothic grotto it is today, the cave was used as a watch house so that local excise men could keep an eye out for smugglers, and you can see exactly why this spot was chosen, with its panoramic views across the waters.
Our three nights at Cawsand passed by in a flash, and there was so much more we wanted to fit in; we didn’t even have time to get the cottage’s kayaks and paddle boards wet, for goodness sake! I’d urge you to visit, make the Blue Monkey your home for a week or so, and leave a little bit of your heart on the Rame Peninsula, too.
*The name ‘Blue Monkey’ comes from two different sources: ‘Blue’ is from The Blue Anchor (a village pub supposedly frequented by Admiral Lord Nelson); and ‘Monkey’, from the triangular formation of stacked cannon balls (the house was once used as an ammunition store, supplying the fort).
FIND OUT MORE
- A three-night low season stay at Blue Monkey starts at £599, with a seven-night high season stay at £3,799. They also offer concierge services, and can arrange everything from fresh fish deliveries and family foraging experiences, to natural therapies and having a chef prepare dinner for you in the house. Blue Monkey, Garrett Street, Cawsand, Cornwall, PL10 1PD, bluemonkeycornwall.com
- Cawsand Ferry, plymouthboattrips.co.uk/ferries/cawsand-ferry
- National Marine Aquarium, national-aquarium.co.uk
