The most southerly port in the country and a safe haven for seafarers in times past, Porthleven is now a key destination for visitors to Cornwall, and it boasts a thriving food and drink scene.
You’ve probably already seen pictures of Porthleven. During a winter storm, you can guarantee that some brave photographer will have been dispatched to the fishing port on Cornwall’s south coast to get pictures of giant waves crashing towards the village’s famous clock tower.
But facing south into the prevailing wind is not Porthleven’s only claim to fame. This busy working harbour has built up a reputation as a foodie destination, with interesting restaurants and cafes at every turn.
Top chef Michael Caines recently opened The Harbourside Refuge in Rick Stein’s former restaurant.
Then there’s a great ice-cream café, pubs, coffee shops, a family-run local produce-based supermarket - it’s a big list for such a small place. There’s even a food festival here in April.
But despite such plentiful offerings, Porthleven manages to maintain that unspoilt feel. It gets busy in the summer (doesn’t everywhere down here?) but it’s a pleasant crowd, lots of coastal path walkers and families who need a pit stop and a crabbing session (there are excellent rockpools to the west of the harbour entrance at low tide).
The village has also always been popular with artists and craftspeople and there are several shops to browse displays and buy local work.
Once you’ve done a slow lap of the harbour and had your fill of food and drink, there are lots of local walks along the dramatic coastline – but keep your wits about you.
When the tide is out, it’s possible to stroll along the long sand and shingle beach to Loe Bar, and the largest natural freshwater lake in Cornwall. However, the tide comes in quick here and can leave you stranded, so check and check again before you travel.
Porthleven’s beach is safe for swimming but be careful if you go any further along the coast. There are ultra-strong currents and freakily dangerous waves, which tend to appear from nowhere - great to watch from a distance but definitely a no-go in your bathers.
Experienced surfers tend to gather at the reef to the right-hand side of Porthleven’s harbour, where the waves are considered to be some of the best breakers in the UK. If you’re not a pro, it’s best to stand and watch from the harbour with an Ann’s Pasty in hand. Well, it’s probably been at least a couple of hours since lunch...
WHERE TO STAY
The Harbour Inn is a lively pub with comfortable rooms, with some enjoying sea views. Pet-friendly rooms are available.
Other than that, it’s mostly self-catering cottages in Porthleven itself but there are some real corkers around.
Westward (sleeps 6) offers truly breath-taking views across the Atlantic and towards the headlands of the Lizard Peninsular. It’s available through Porthleven Holiday Cottages.
There’s also a two-bedroomed holiday flat above The Square restaurant.
If you are after a hotel, the Mullion Cove Hotel and Spa or the Polurrion on The Lizard are nearby.
For a more rustic but beautiful stay, Treza Camp Site and Penrose Camp sites are just a short walk away from the village and overlook that stunning coastline. There are showers and flushing loos, but no electricity and caravans are not allowed.
FOOD & DRINK
As we were saying, you’ll be spoilt for choice here.
Mediterranean-inspired Amélie has an emphasis on locally sourced seafood, with dishes such as Cornish crab arancini, chive crème fraiche and whole baked day boat fish, rocket salad, red onions and crispy capers. There’s also a wood-fired pizza oven.
Since opening, Kota has been the proud recipient of multiple awards including two Rosettes by the AA, a Bib Gourmand from The Michelin Guide, as well as being recognised by many Eating Out guides.
The Square offers a brasserie-style menu, while next door is a deli and ice cream emporium. All ice creams are made on the premises using natural and seasonal flavourings.
There’s a warm welcome, pub quizzes, themed nights and great views at The Atlantic Inn. The Ship Inn is also a must.
And take the opportunity to try some Curio Spirits. The craft distillers are based in The Shipyard Market, Porthleven, and run regular gin tasting experiences and cocktail workshops.
A fishing legacy
Porthleven is the most southerly working port in the United Kingdom.
The harbour once had a fleet of more than 100 drifters, used to fish pilchard and mackerel.
Artist's inspiration
Artist Bonnie Steward creates masterful pieces of work from the items she finds while beach cleaning, usually in and around Porthleven harbour. She regularly displays her art at Porthleven Harbour Market. bishart.co.uk
On the water
Take to the water and explore the incredible coastline under expert guidance. Vertical Blue Adventures in Porthleven specialises in personalised adventures, including kayak and paddleboard tours, lessons, private hire and sales.
