For fresh from the sea dishes and an inspiring vegan menu, head to Michael Caines’ Porthleven restaurant.
High tide at Porthleven on a calm summer’s evening. People are milling around, ambling along the harbourside, sitting on benches, taking dogs for a last walk before the sun goes down. All activity seems to gravitate to the walkways and lanes around the harbour which contain a superb array of places to eat and drink.
The dining out offering goes way beyond what you’d normally expect for a place of this size, no wonder this harbour town has such a big foodie reputation. You can eat excellent quality food in a different restaurant, pub or café, every day of the week.
This evening we are at The Harbourside Refuge, one of the two Cornish venues in the Michael Caines’ collection of restaurants.
Formerly one of Rick Stein’s restaurants, The Harbourside Refuge retains a strong sense of place, a fisherman’s retreat with white painted stone walls, comfy sofa areas where you can sit with a drink from the bar, and an expansive upstairs dining area including a rooftop alfresco spot. It’s an old building with a stylish feel, but one that doesn’t lose sight of its history and location.
Seafood naturally features prominently on the menu, as it should. Like an invigorating sea breeze, a starter of sea bream ceviche with avocado, grapefruit and coriander perfectly demonstrates the straight from sea to plate ethos that’s championed by head chef Jack Wilkinson. Mains include whole plaice with brown shrimp, capers and lemon, or wild cod with artichoke, watercress and chive butter sauce. Take note of every item ‘listed’ on the dish description, as it really does count. Every single flavour and texture of the dish is there for a purpose and makes itself heard. Beautifully cooked, visually stunning and so clean and vibrant.
The menu is not too long, a good sign, and it includes meat dishes and a saffron risotto. Also on offer is a full vegan menu, two choices for each course. Cast aside any doubts about ‘going without’ - this is Huge flavour. Flavour from exciting, gutsy ingredients that don’t rely on salt, fats or carbs to make a big impression. A chickpea panelle with sorrel, lemon and garlic is lightly fried, creamy and gorgeously garlicky. This is followed by a kelp ramen. A brave choice, noodles are not always the best to go for if you’re trying to remain elegant at the table, but who cares! With a slightly smoky chargrilled hen of the woods, plenty of colourful veggies and a rich, savoury broth, with seaweed crackers on the side – again, it is faultless. Sides of Tenderstem broccoli with hazelnuts, and truffle and parmesan fries hold their own, making an impact and complementing the main dishes.
We finish with a palette cleansing burst of excitement. A raspberry parfait with hits of bitter lemon is a taste of summer, as is the mango and lime mousse, a tropical burst to end a summer’s evening on a Cornish harbourside.
Two courses are £45, three courses £55, with lunch at £26 and £35. A seven course Signature Tasting Menu is also available.
