Those who live on or near the Wirral are extremely fortunate. They may have noticed work being carried out on a characterful old building, known as The Manor. Out of it has arisen a very lovely phoenix, an extremely civilised, stylish and relaxed series of different spaces, perfectly designed to accommodate both simple celebrations and special occasions with everything in between.
The main restaurant is dressed in shades of coral, of aquamarine, of lots of soft hues that draw your eye to some stunning artworks, with a layout that invites intimacy, an airy conservatory and a snug room that allows dogs of all shapes and sizes, accompanied by their loving owners of course, to partake of the delights that the all-day menu has to offer, with the 'Sir Woofchester's' dog menu to delight all canine tastes.
This addition to the Nelson Hotel and Inns collection has been very carefully thought out indeed. The attention to detail is painstaking and it shows, both in the ambience due to stunning architectural and interior design and of course, the food. It complements Nelson's range of restaurants within Cheshire pubs and a hotel, set in stunning locations.
It is a brave and confident move to open a restaurant after the turmoil of the past five years, and it is quite astounding that the Manor is already purring along like a well-oiled machine. That is, in every way, the result of a very carefully chosen team drawn from iconic venues such as the Ivy, the Mayfair Hotel and Soho House, creating a pool of experience to lavish on this new venue.
It all seems so simple. A perusal of the menu reveals a truly international selection of flavours with modern British, Japanese, South American, Mexican, Chinese, French and Italian influences, to mention but a few. This could be superficial, but in fact, the depth of thought that has gone into the many dishes is palpable. And the end result is that there is, quite literally something for everyone.
It can be nigh on impossible to find the perfect venue for a family celebration. But the Manor genuinely has it all, for everyone, from the youngsters through to the family elders. This is not to forget all the other types of celebrations. The couples, the friends, the co-workers who want to enjoy a convivial meal in a sophisticated yet relaxed setting. It isn't just an all-day menu; an imaginative brunch menu starts mid-morning, and a celebratory afternoon tea menu fills the gap between lunchtime and dinnertime quite perfectly.
The simplicity of the descriptions of each dish belies the underlying complexity of preparation; the marinades, the style of cooking through to the presentation at the table. The theatre of a gently smoking barbecue brought to your table, atop which a perfectly cooked, miso-marinaded chicken poussin enhanced with Japanese flavours, served with a flourish of greens glazed in yuzu, sesame and chilli is irresistible and thoroughly recommended. But more of that to come.
We were shown to our invitingly soft banquette seating set by a door open to the warm summer evening. I had possibly the best Negroni ever with the warmed fragrance of a twist of orange peel, while we perused the extensive menu.
We started with a twice-baked Quicke's Cheddar Cheese soufflé and I confess to a squabble of forks clashing discreetly as we scooped up the puddle of delicious parmesan cream. The mature cheddar lent just the right degree of tanginess in the soft soufflé cloud contrasting with the rich flavour and creaminess of the sauce. Moving on, the stunning, fresh arrangement of a much-loved classic prawn and crayfish salad with clever twists such as a Bloody Mary dressing, lightly roasted San Marzano tomatoes (the Rolls-Royce of tomatoes), charred avocados with an intensified flavour and colour, woven into fresh salad leaves by sweetly soused cucumber strips was much more than a sum of its parts.
The cleverness of a menu that hints at complex preparation and cooking processes without intimidating the reader really came into its own with the most delicious crispy, miniature, spiced chicken tacos. This dish, with a chilli and coriander salsa combined with a subtle citrus dressing would be a real crowd-pleaser at any celebration whatever the age group.
We followed this with a touch of theatre. This was the aforementioned miso chilli and lemon-roasted chicken, modestly described in the menu, but oh, so delicious. For me, the tangle of greens was a perfect accompaniment. The aromatic crispy duck was fair competition however. The deconstructed breast and leg were cooked in contrasting ways, one slow and one slow, quick, quick slow duck breast, perfectly rendered fat with a gloriously crispy skin and tender pinkness, and a leg that waltzed onto the plate after three hours of careful preparation in the form of a duck harumaki delicately spiced with star anise, sesame, ginger, carrot and red chilli with a yuzu ponzu and hoisin sauce to dip.
Our choice from the extensive wine list, the Celeste Rioja from the Pago del Cielo winery was batting its full 14.5% strength and was the perfect accompaniment to all the robust flavours, without overwhelming the more delicate ones, for instance, the sea bass with its seared crispy skin, a prawn croquette sat atop haricot beans and chorizo simmered in a creamy, soft and buttery herby emulsion to complement the delicate flakes of perfectly fresh fish.
The kitchen has paid painstaking attention to those who have allergies and gluten-free requirements, dedicating special fryers and areas of the kitchen solely for the specific purpose of preparation. Delicious vegan and vegetarian dishes are superb, not just an afterthought and there is a stunning salt-baked beetroot wellington with roasted shallots and a squash purée to pour over.
Talking about pouring over. Imagine a chocolate bombe, a sophisticated shell of deliciousness, filled with passionfruit ice cream, morsels of chocolate brownie with a sharp contrast of passionfruit gel and then, rather than destroying the perfection with a brutal attack with a fork, pour piping hot chocolate sauce over the golden-flecked dome and watch it gently subside into a pool of pure bliss. The malt chocolate brownie had some serious competition here, but the clotted cream ice cream on the same team gave it a good run for its money.
If you can possibly find a corner, do give in to temptation with the after-dinner drinks. My Brandy Alexander was a perfect end to the meal, and rounded off what proved to be a thoroughly enjoyable evening. It is so important that the food and drink should enhance the occasion rather than to dominate it. The knowledgeable and delightful staff all contributed to the overall experience. My memorable impression of The Manor was that it scored on all points. Every dish we tasted was the best it could be and we're very much looking forward to a return visit. The menu is evolving all the time, and the tantalising hints we were given for the next month or two mean I'll be keeping a close eye on the website.
Starters and small plates from £9 to £13
Main courses from £16 to £24
Negroni £9.50
Brandy Alexander £9
The Manor at Greasby
91 Greasby Road, Greasby, Wirral CH49 3NF
0151 677 7034
themanorgreasby.co.uk
