Kurt Thomas, a Michelin-trained chef and photographer, visits Y Parlwr, a new dining adventure in Rhosneigr, Anglesey
Gliding past fields of newborn lambs, the snow-capped mountains of Snowdonia and wild daffodils dancing by the roadside in the breeze can only mean one thing. Spring is coming to Wales.
The destination today is Rhosneigr on the southwest side of the Island of Anglesey; the village is famous for its two broad sandy beaches and its dramatic dunes, memorable holidays and impressive eateries.
The latest hospitality project comes courtesy of Cheshire couple, Philip and Louise Goodwin, owners of the neighbouring Sandy Mount House. Y Parlwr is in the building that once housed Sullivan’s burger and beach food café.
Y Parlwr, (pronounced par /loor) meaning 'The Larder', is tucked away in a quiet corner of the High Street and after a complete refurbishment is inviting clientele to experience a spectacular tasting menu.
The restaurant is fronted by the Goodwins' village shop, Cowrie, serving artisan bakery, tasty goodies from proud Welsh producers and other gems not available at the branded local stores.
The Y Parlwr dining area is a stylish room in shades of pebble stone with an intelligent lighting system that can be adjusted to create changing moods. This was to be the setting for our seven-course tasting menu, which offers a profusion of fresh produce all with a local provenance, expertly crafted by executive head chef Hefin Roberts.
There are four 'experience' menus: standard, vegetarian, pescatarian and carnitarian and each dish is a piece of theatre. Diners with allergies are looked after – it’s helpful to let the team know in advance of any dietary restrictions.
The artisan breads consisted of treacle-based focaccia and a crunchy, crusted sourdough created from a 20-year-old starter, whose name was Bob (sourdough is made from a fermenting mix that is partly used each day then topped up with fresh flour and water so it lives on and on getting more complex with age. Most bakers give it a name and treat it as one of the family.) The butter was spiced with the best Moroccan herbs.
The next course was an Aberffraw scallop-shaped biscuit turned savoury and sandwiched with Caerphilly cheese and a lava bread punch just when you were least expecting it.
Following on we experienced the Elements of the Sea. Supporting local fishermen in Cemaes Bay, Hefin is giving something back to the local community.
There were three twists to this course: fresh mussels with a lemon tang in a mussel velouté served with sourdough toast, local oyster with pickled cucumber, and delicately cured sea trout with yoghurt and fish eggs.
The Welsh beef that followed was cooked to perfection. Nestling on buttered Savoy cabbage, it was complemented by a sweet onion confit, braised oxtail and sauce, two textures of cauliflower and finished with glazed shallot.
We tasted a plump Cemaes Bay scallop next, with diced pear, spiced granola and blackened pear jam. The last element saluting the freshness of the scallop without overpowering and the granola adding extra texture.
An interesting take on Anglesey lamb gave us tender, slow-cooked loin on sweet softened leek with a vichyssoise foam, which simply melted away on the palate served with black garlic ketchup.
The cheese course was next up and Hefin had done a cheeky play on a croque monsieur, using a strong Époisses cheese and his favourite Carmarthen cured ham melted between two crisp sheets of crunchy, buttered, golden sourdough. There was a spoonful of tomato chutney for the final cut, presented on a baked clay impression of a folded kitchen towel.
Sweet transitions are always interesting and guide the diner from savoury to dessert. The first was a bacon bread and butter pudding with, banana and butternut squash, the meat adding the type of saltiness you might associate with salted caramel. It did exactly what it was meant to do and was despatched with a plume of homemade candy floss.
The honey and orange brûlée was originally created by accident; the honey was heading towards burning when the chef added the cream. The effect tempered down the sweetness of the honey with the result being a delicious set cream that is neither too sweet nor too bitter. It came dressed with fresh orange segments and a tuile biscuit.
Finally, the charcoal ice cream with lemon curd: three levels of taste and a crunch sealing the deal. And there is a little surprise at the end...
If you really appreciate food, Y Parlwr is a taste trip – a magical culinary experience created by people with a passion – and I would urge you to make the journey as soon as possible.
Opening times: Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 6.30pm with service at 7pm. Expect to be there all evening enjoying the food.
The bill: £135 per head with an optional £65 wine flight. The menus change quarterly with the seasons
Y Parlwr, High Street, Rhosneigr, Anglesey, LL64 5UQ
07442 879437
yparlwr.co.uk
